Friday, November 27, 2015

Arrival in Sougia (more Crete)

Paleochora was one of our favorite places. I loved the tiny peninsula that was only a few blocks wide, surrounded by waterfront -- rocky beach or sandy beach, we had our pick. Our last morning in town we ate pastries from the shop across the street, walked across town to the corniche and picked up a few souvenirs along the way. The boys found a 1 Euro shop that they were sure held all sorts of treasures . . . but no. 




We would come to this side of town to eat dinner at night with its gorgeous view of the Mediterranean. 




Our last stop before we headed into the mountains to our next vacation destination was a final meal at our favorite restaurant, the schoolhouse cafe in Anidri Village. The boys brought cards, Josh and I brought our books and we sat for several hours in the sunshine, relaxing, eating and enjoying a lazy lunch. 


Our lunchtime view


Always making friends. This baby was at the table next to us and he loved Carter. The two younger boys followed him all over the grounds while we were waiting for our food. 


Fresh salads with olives and feta (yes, that's pickled seaweed on top -- delicious!)


Camille wanted escargot today


and she loved it. Caleb wasn't a fan. He said it tasted good, but couldn't get past the texture. No matter, Camille ate it all. 

I can't remember what else we ate, but I can guarantee that it was excellent. Every meal has been perfection. Every tomato perfectly red, ripe and with the tomatoey sweet/tart/acic balance that sets them apart. I realized I haven't had a good tomato since moving overseas. Even the beautiful tomatoes that we had in Turkey weren't nearly as vibrant in taste as the ones we are getting in Crete. Cretan food is now my #2 favorite cuisine after Mexican (guacamole and salsa are hard to beat). 


In order to get to Sougia, a remote spot on the southern coast, we had to drive north to get around a set of mountains and then back down to the water's edge. 


More winding roads through the mountains with zero traffic. 




Josh kept teasing me and pretending that we were going to have to drive on roads like this one headed up and to the right. I still hadn't quite recovered from our harrowing ride to Elafonisi beach. I don't know who lives on those roads less traveled, but I certainly wouldn't! 


The winding back and forth put her to sleep. 


Driving through paradise with the breeze in our hair, spotting goats, sheep and dogs snoozing in patches of sunshine along the sides of the road (and sometimes in the road!) Have I mentioned that we spent our drives thinking of career moves that would enable us to move to Crete?


We arrived in our one road town in time to get unpacked, walk down to the beach and explore before dinner. 

He's reading. A shocking sight. 


A rocky beach made up entirely of rounded stones. Easy on the feet, but lots of slipping and sliding and sinking in as we walked. 


Rock skipping ammunition for days!



The setting sun signaled it was time to find a place to eat dinner.


More great food, steps away from where we were staying. 


Dinner outside on a clear night


We've tried the local village wine everywhere we've stayed. It's usually a brownish color rather than red or white. It's cheap and goes perfectly with all the feta, olives and grilled seafood that we've been eating.


You can even buy it in unlabeled bottles at the local grocery store or mini mart. It's a crazy contrast to the US where everything sold in stores has to be carefully labeled and compared to Bahrain where alcohol can only be sold in special stores. Crete = freedom.  

Saturday, November 21, 2015

Detour (Elafonisi beach)


Crete is magical. Relaxed, easy pace -- though part of that is self-designed. You could definitely overdo it here. One of the things about travel planning on the fly is that at night when I'd normally be blogging about our day, I'm busy figuring out what we are going to do tomorrow or trying to make arrangements for the next hotel/apartment.


The black netting is strung out under the olive trees to catch the fallen fruit
So there is this legendary pink sand beach that is one of the most famous beaches in the world. It's tucked away on the southwest corner of Crete so we figured it would be a good day trip when we are staying on the southern coast. Except it turns out that the shortest way to the beach is over a rock and dirt road requiring 4 wheel drive, which we don't have. Oh well, it's still only about an hour the long way around.

Where are we going?! Through someone's backyard?
Following our map and GPS we start out on some of the narrowest and most winding roads I've ever travelled on. Beautiful views off the sides of the cliffs, but also plenty of shrines, reminding us of those who hadn't been as lucky on these roads. Things were looking good until we hit dirt. Thanks a lot GPS lady! We had thwarted her first attempts to take us to the "shortcut," but she was slick and persistent and brought us back around to another pass through the mountains (instead of around).



hmm, looking a little rough . . .


uh, oh . . . where did the pavement go? 


The road went on and on and got worse and worse.

According to our dumb paper map it was an "improved" road, but I don't know what it looked like previously to make this series of holes, ruts, and boulders the improved version. We tried to drive it for a stretch, especially since we were so close, but finally called it quits and Josh did a 42 point turn on the side of the mountain to get us turned around and headed back to find a paved road.

We backtracked and eventually found a place where we could meet up with the main road that would take us all the way to the beach.


I was not thrilled about taking this super-sharp blind turn. 


A pretty drive, but a roundabout one.




Sheep in the road!


random goat on a cliff


lots of goats!


chilling in the road


goats at church


finally a glimpse of the ocean!

The legends of pink sand are true, but not in the way that Carmel is a white sand beach. Elafonisi beach was similar to our beach day further north on the same coast, the edges of the surf tinged pink with sand made of red coral. Beautiful and indeed pink, but the majority of the sand is beautiful plain golden/tan beach sand.



Turquoise water as far as the eye can see and we planted our towels on an island sandbar for the afternoon. Warm water, little fish swimming among the rocks, and because it's October, this very popular beach isn't overrun with people like it would be at the height of summer. Worth every extra mile.





Checking out the pink sand


Hiking around our sandbar island



On the far side we found the black and pink sand beach


pretty, Mama!


Crystal clear water -- warm enough to swim




Trying to sort the pink grains from the black . . .


Building an "aquarium" for the fish they are going to catch.


the inland side of our sandbar



Crossing over -- the tide is coming in, so it's getting deeper


fishing!




Sun-kissed and happy, heading home.


The correct way through the mountains this time. 


Dinner of grilled anchovies


and moussaka (Greek lasagna-type dish. So delicious!)


And then we stopped at an outdoor cafe for crepes and honey raki


A perfect nightcap




A beautiful full moon over the Mediterranean.